My New A-Frame

My new light-weight A-frame, on wheels,
matches my 9' yellow tunnel.

Last week one of our club's newer competitors posted notice she was selling all of her agility equipment.  Her border collie had been diagnosed with epilepsy and displasia, preventing her from pursuing the sport further.  It was very sad.

At the same time, it was a boon for several of her clubmates who bought the equipment at half-price or less -- jumps, tunnels, table, weaves, baby dog walk, sand bags.  Our club scored a steerable A-frame mover, very well built, heavy gauge steel, and brand new, which we have sorely needed but could not afford at full price.

I drove over immediately to look at the equipment and possibly make purchases for myself and others.  I presumed it would all sell fast, and most of it got snapped up quickly. Clubmate Ken and I returned with his big van a few days later to pick up his tunnel, tire jump, table, the club's A-frame mover, and my stuff.

I bought 6 small tunnel sandbags for $10, and a home made light-weight A-Frame in LSU colors for $200 -- what I offered when nobody else wanted it because the metal frame is sway-back, the rubberized coating is coming loose, and the bare wood will eventually rot.  It isn't competition grade.  Nevertheless, I got to thinking that the frame, being made of channel steel, could be reinforced, straightened and re-used when the current top is replaced, and the unit, as is, is adequate for training my wee little dogs at home.  The tipping point for me to purchase was when I realized the way it was constructed, the wheels and axles I had on my old wooden A-Frame would slip right through the tubes at the bottom.  Also, she agreed to reduce the price down from $550.



Underside construction,
wheels hold it 1" above the ground,
1" square tube top and bottom
allows my axles to go through
the bottom ones.

It took John an hour or so to finagle the A-frame into the back yard (no easy task as fencing had to be removed).  It took him an hour or so to swap out the wheels (wing nuts were rusted on, of course), but now I have a light A-frame which I can wheel back and forth across the yard to mow underneath.  I don't have to wait for John to get home or someone to come over to help me move it.  The wheels also keep the A-frame itself from direct contact with the ground.  In the lawn where it had been sitting, one end had sunk about 3" under the ground and grass had rooted in the rubberized surface.  It took me about half an hour to tear out the grass. 

I still need to repair and re-glue the rubberized surface and paint the wood.  I'll probably use epoxy on the glue project, and spar urethene exterior varnish on the wood.  I may wait until it's cooler.

I tested it out this morning, and even though it's much lighter than my old solid wood A-frame and has a good bit of flex, the weight of the dogs hitting the upside or pushing off the downside, even Lucky's 50 lbs, doesn't roll it, so I don't need to chock the wheels.  But I could if I needed to for a larger dog. 



Dogs L to R:  Lucky, Pepper, Maxie

Maxie & Lucky seemed thrilled to have an A-frame again, and Pepper zipped right over it too, at full height, without the slightest need of encouragement.  Getting Maxie and Lucky to stay on top for a photo was difficult, with many a STAY, HALT, STOP, KISS ME, PLEASE STAY WHILE DADDY TAKES OUR PICTURE. I didn't realize how well they have internalized our NEVER PAUSE AT THE TOP rule!  They clearly didn't feel right about it.  Good!

Maxie (top), Pepper (bottom)

I even managed to crop a really cute photo of Pepper and Maxie posing together at the top. Too bad it's not sharp.

We are all feeling lucky today.  Now when will Lady Luck send me a dog walk I can afford?  The wooden one I built has rotted out in only 3 years. I don't want another wood one, but it puts a real crimp in an agility dog's lifestyle not to have all 3 pieces of the contact equipment handy.  For my dogs, at least, they are the most fun.

Upwards and onward!

Keeping Cool In Hot Weather

Last night at 7 p.m. the temperature reading on my car thermometer was 99 degrees (and by 9:30 it was still reading 95), so I gathered my agility students around (both classes) and took several minutes to prep them how to cope with this scorching heat.   I've been mulling over this problem since last summer when one agility student swooned and fell to the ground, when I almost had to quit taking classes myself last summer in the midst of competition season, and lately I've worried how I might survive teaching classes in temperatures approaching 100 degrees.  So today, I decided to share my heat survival strategies with everyone I can reach, because heat stroke is serious business. 

So far, my "keeping cool" methods include:

• Freeze 2 small (8-10 oz.) water bottles ahead of time.  Add these to the dog's water jug (I got an Igloo 1 gallon wide-mouth at Dollar General for about $6, but you can pay about $12 other places.).  The water bottles work just like ice, without melting fast or letting the dogs eat the ice cubes.  When you get home, just rinse off and throw the bottles back in the freezer. 
• Fill 2 or 3 16-20 oz. water bottles about half full, freeze tilted almost on their sides.  Fill the empty space with water just before class.  The ice melts slowly and is mostly gone after a few hours, but is still very cool.  Can substitute water with gator aide, freeze that, refilling the small bottles from a large one at home.
• Treats - freeze your dog treats, such as liver brownies, gizzards, Bil-Jak. Of course, keep these in a small cooler, right next to your half-frozen drinking water bottles.
• Electrolytes - preferable to water, drink Coconut Water, Gator Aide, or other fluids that replace electrolytes. Target and Wal-Mart sell all kinds of sports drinks now. Freeze them a few hours before class. Someone suggested upping Potassium in the diet, like "a banana a day keeps the charlie horses away".
• Bandana - 100% cotton, wet one down and tie it around your neck.  Use to wipe your face and arms, re-wet often, and keep tied around your neck.
• Wash cloths - wet one down to dripping wet and and wipe dog's underarms, belly and behind their ears several times during class. Rub them all over.
• Introduce the swimming pool and encourage dogs to hop in between their runs.  Keeps their feet cool.
• Spray Bottle - I have an orchid spray bottle that puts out an extremely fine mist.  Spray your face, neck, arms, clothes, between runs, even the dog if they will tolerate it.
• Sweat band - made of thick terry cloth, 100% cotton, like tennis players use.  Keep on your forehead to keep that salty sweat out of your eyes.
• Clothing - wear 100% cotton, breathable fabrics, preferably patterns or colors that look the same wet or dry.  Drench your shirt in water or lots of mist to keep yourself very cool. I can go in the grocery store wringed out wet and nobody can tell.
• Hat or cap - make sure heat can escape from the top of your head.  If you wear a cap, let it be open on top (sun visor) unless you're working in direct sun.  We give off heat from the top of our head.
• Pull hair back into pony tail, or at least up off of the neck.
• Canopy:  Stay in the shade during the day, under a canopy if no natural shade is available.  Wonderful, sturdy 10' x 10' straight leg canopies, by First-Up, are available at O-Neal Wal-Mart for around $80.  Suggested retail elsewhere:  $249.  Wal-Mart also offers both screen and opaque sides for this model, at about $40 each.  A total bargain.  One person can put this up, and it folds down for compact storage to 8" x 8" x 4', which is on wheels.  (Ingenious design).  Replacement parts are available.   I wish they made these canopies in the 6' x 6' or 7' x 7' size.  I would set mine up over my crate space at trials in cold weather, with a heater inside to keep us all warm.
• Portable fans - needed in the car, with windows open, if any dog must be left in there. Also great hanging on any wire crate. My brand is the little Ozark Trail O2 COOL, very popular, available at Wal-Mart, Home Depot, etc., at around $25-30. It runs on 8 D-cells, and also has a 12 volt cord for plugging into a car's lighter socket. It stands up on its own, also has a hook for hanging. Mine hangs from the passenger side visor. 10" blade.  3#. Folds small. Lo-Hi settings. I like it. There are more expensive versions now, with rechargeable batteries. Here's the link, and their ad.
  We checked into a bit larger/heavier Ryobi fan with 8 hour rechargeable lithium battery from Home Depot (+-$100), but I'm happy with my O2-COOL for now.
• Dog Cooling Coat: And then there are the dog cooling coats, which I'm looking into.  Lucky really shuts down in the heat. Jerri has ordered one for Kyra and it should be here next week for me to check out.  Meanwhile, a Google search offered one from Wal-Mart for only about $35. You just dip it in water 1 to 2 minutes, for hours of cool.   Check it out: HyperKewl Canine Cooling Coat, Blue   Do they have these for humans?

Stayin' cool!

One Jump Is All You Need

"One jump is all you need to learn every handling maneuver". 
So says Susan Garrett, and so says Steve Schwarz, the Agility Nerd.

So I figure, every new agility student, whether serious about agility or just looking to have some good exercise and fun with their dog, should buy or build 1 jump for their yard, den, or patio, or to carry in their trunk and assemble it at the park.  To facilitate that, I'm giving the directions for building your own jump.

Materials for a 4' wide jump:
2 10' PVC poles 1" gauge, cut as follows:
Pole #1, cut 2 4' lengths, and 2 1' lengths
Pole #2, cut 2 3' lengths, 2 1' lengths, and 2 2" lengths
Leftovers: 1.8'

4 PVC T's to match 1" gauge
6 end caps
PVC glue
(Optional) Colored masking tape to decorate the bars.

This gives you 1 jump with the bottom bar set at 4" off the ground.

You might also choose to make your jumps only 3.5' wide, in which case you can use 3/4" gauge PVC, but these jumps don't meet the regulation 4' and 5' wide jumps required in competition.  On the other hand, they are light weight, cheaper, a bit easier to fit in your trunk, and just as much fun for your dog. (I have these at home, as pictured above.)

NOTE:  You need either a skill saw, a hack saw, or a table saw to cut the PVC.  Beware, the plastic can shatter unless you cut slowly, and it helps to wrap the line to be cut with masking tape first. Protect your eyes with safety glasses.

Assembly: Glue the foot parts together. Glue the upright parts together. Glue the end caps on. Don't glue the feet to the uprights (for flat storage), and don't glue the crossbars to the uprights.

Jump Cups are used to hold the cross bars up.  They snap onto the uprights, and you vary their height along the uprights depending on the jump height of your dog (in 4 inch increments from 8", 12", 16", 20", 24").  Since I train 2 dogs and another comes to train at my house, and all are different heights, I have 6 jump cups on each of my jumps, two set at 8" for Maxie, 2 at 12" for Charlie, and 2 at 20" for Lucky.  We move the top bar up and down depending upon who is practicing.  If necessary, I could also slide the jump cups up and down, but that would be a pain in the butt.  When I get time I will make more jump cups for 16" and 22".

You need 2 jump cups to hold up each bar.

You can purchase 1" gauge jump cups (and other gauges) off of Ebay for a reasonable fee.  Go to http://www.ebay.com/.   In their search bar, put dog agility jump cups.  You'll come up with a ton of choices - a much easier option than making your own!

Making your own Jump Cups:  Yes, it can be done if you have a table saw and know how to use it, and you get the right kind of T's that don't have deep inner casting marks.  1 T makes 2 jump cups. Cut the top of the T off a wee bit before the middle mark, leaving a C shape that can clamp on firmly to the upright poles.  Cut the decapitated T in half, perpendicular to the first cut, and voila, 2 jump cups.

What You Can Practice With One Jump:

• Post Turns
• Pull Throughs
• Front Cross (take off and landing sides)
• Rear Cross (take off and landing sides)
• Blind Cross
• Sends
• Calls
• Run Bys
• Around The Clocks
• Distances
• Angles
• Go Jumps, Out Jumps, Come Jumps
• Send to Back Side
• Lateral Lead Outs

These and other handling maneuvers are described on Steve Schwarz's blog. No excuse not to practice in limited space now, or when you can't go outside!

Upwards and onward!